Where to eat in Verona, Italy

Where to eat in Verona, Italy

There is no world without Verona walls But purgatory, torture, hell itself.
Hence “banishèd” is banished from the world, And world’s exile is death. Then “banishèd

Romeo & Juliet, Act 3, Scene 3

 

Despite challenging this claim almost 4 years ago when I moved to the UK and still being alive, Verona is indeed a beautiful city. What I like about it is how it’s been looked after in the past decade or so, making sure its Roman, Medieval, Renaissance, and more recent architecture and art are conserved. It is also right at the bottom of the Alps, so with less than an hour drive, you can be up in the mountains, breathing fresh air, and enjoying the quietness interrupted only by cow bells. Or if that is not your gig, you can drive about 30min to the biggest lake in Italy, enjoy a swim and a stroll along the water. I know its roads inside out, and I would recommend a stop in this beautiful spot to anyone travelling to Italy.

We just came back from a week there, and as always we enjoyed eating out most days. There are so many good places to try out, some of which have opened up in the recent years. Although you can walk anywhere around Verona, they have also installed bike sharing stations throughout. For the first time, I tried them this summer and I must admit they might be even better than the Boris bikes in London. Definitely lighter at least!  So to help you navigate the city, I’ve created two maps: one with all food places, organised by meals, and one with different walks (or bike tours) you can go on. Each point of the map has a description. I’ve copied below my personal favourite food places, but there are more on the map.

Shakespeare plaque

STREET FOOD

  • Piadineria Baccabundhus
    Via dell’Artigliere, 17, 37129 Verona VR, Italy

Here you can order a kind of flat bread wrap/sandwich, called “piadina”, which comes with any filling you want from the list of ingredients. They can heat it up for you too. It’s a good option for a quick lunch to eat there or take on your walk.

This place has a long queue at night when they serve freshly made doughnuts (or Krapfen, to use the German word). They come plain, with chocolate, cream and I believe jam too. Again, in the summer this place is open only in the evening till late, especially on weekends. Their summer hours are from 10pm to 2am, Friday and Saturday until 4am.

This place is open till very late at night, especially at weekends. So if after a drink you are still hungry this is the place to some. They sell things like small breaded cutlets, potato croquettes (my favourite!!), breaded meatballs, and “panzerotti” (fried dough in the shape of a calzone, or half a circle, stuffed with tomato sauce and mozzarella). I believe they sell bread and pizza too, but it’s not their main thing.

BREAKFAST PLACES / CAFES

  • Caffè Tubino (Caffe’ Borsari)
    Corso Porta Borsari, 15d, 37121 Verona VR, Italy

Rather than for breakfast, I would recommend this place for a mid-morning or afternoon coffee. It’s an old coffee roaster where you can buy beans and cups. Go inside, have an espresso or a macchiato, and have a look around. It’s really tiny but it has a lot of character.

  • Pasticceria Miozzi
    Via Diaz, 11, 37121 Verona VR, Italy

This bar/pasticceria (pastry shop) has the same feeling as Vittorini, so if you want to stay in the city centre, but not miss the experience try this place. They make all their pastries there. If you google this place, there are a couple of them. I’m not sure if it’s the same family, but I’m referring to the one in Via Diaz in Verona.

If you’ve had enough of Italian food and crave something more international, like a brunch on the weekend, this place is for you. I’ve not tried it yet, but it seems to offer a basic brunch menu with pancakes, scrambled eggs, etc. One of the few places that will serve you avocado, and the only one that will give you bagels, as far as I know. The also serve lunch and dinner here.

GELATO

This place opened up just a couple of years ago and it was instantly a success. You can even see them make their ice cream and cakes! I’ve always seen a long queue, but it’s totally worth it. Their flavours are all very creamy with a twist of originality. If you order a cone they will ask you if you want the bottom bit filled with chocolate syrup (made by them).

This is an historical place in the city opened for decades. I’ve been here more times than I care to admit because it’s so close to where I lived. My favourite flavours are stracciatella (vanilla with chocolate chips made from roughly cut up chocolate bar – I used to have competitions with my brother to see who would get the largest chocolate bit!), bacio (means ‘kiss’, and it’s chocolate with hazelnuts), and fragolina di bosco (‘wild straberry’ – try it! it’s absolutely delicious!). They are also famous for their ‘pinguino’, which is ice cream on a stick covered in chocolate. Another favourite that acts as a meal is the ‘gianduiotto da passeggio’, which is a cup with layers of chocolate ice cream, chocolate syrup and whipped cream.

MERENDA (AFTERNOON SNACK)

  • Flego Pasticceria
    Via Stella, 13, 37121 Verona VR, Italy

I am just in awe with their cakes and pastries. I would just take millions of pictures (to prevent me from eating them!). Their ‘pasticceria mignon’ is superb – small pastries in different shapes and flavorus. They have fruit tarts, chocolate bigné rum flavoured babà, and the list goes on. All good!

hot chocolate and pastries

SPRITZ/APERITIF

Hands down best spritz in town. Their food and nibbles during happy hour are also some of the best!

  • Via Roma, 33
    Via Roma, 33, 37121 Verona VR, Italy

This spritz is probably the most expensive one in town during happy hour (last time I checked it was 7 euro), BUT they have a proper buffet dinner to go with it. I’ve often come here to have a drink and dinner for just 7 euro. Their food is really good! If you are the kind of person that likes spotting VIPs, Italian olympic swimmer Federica Pellegrini and her boyfriend Filippo Magnini often come here when they are in town to train. Yes, Verona is the training centre for all Italian Olympic swimmers.

  • Tennis Club Torricelle
    Via Torricelle, 2, 37128 Verona VR, Italy

If you have a car (or fancy a really long walk uphill – no sidewalks though), come up to the club house of the tennis club. The view is absolutely stunning. They serve drinks, happy hour (no nibbles as far I remember though), and they also have a restaurant which is decent.

LIGHT LUNCH

  • Cappa Café
    Piazzetta Bra’ Molinari, 1 / a, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
    www.cappacafe.it

This cafe’ is open all day, and serves lunch, dinner and cocktails later in the evening. It has some classic dishes from the area (e.g. horse meat!), as well as pizza, pasta, and sandwiches. If they have room, ask to sit on the terrace to enjoy the beautiful view of the Roman Theatre, Castel S. Pietro, and the river.

RESTAURANT

This restaurant has re-opened a few years ago and serves delicious food with stunning presentations. Their pizza is really really good, but so is their deconstructed burger, or their mushroom bruschetta as a starter. They have a stunning terrace overlooking the city and a wide selection of gin (and of course, great wine)!

They are known for their Argentinian meat, but the pizza is also very good. Plus it’s located in a park on the hills, away from the traffic noise.

 

PIZZA

This is one my favourite spots for pizza. I love the colourful interiors of this place and the tomato sauce they use on their pizzas. Also, you should try their Millefoglie dessert (a sweet type of filo pastry layered with custard creme and covered in nuts on the outside). They don’t take reservations so you know you’ll most probably find a place always.

There are actually two of these, almost opposite from each other. The first one, the original one, has an almost unnoticeable door if you ignore the queue that’s usually outside it. The second one, slightly bigger and on the corner of the street, was built to keep up with the demands. Both make original pizza from Naples, so tall soft crust and thin base, cooked in a woodfire oven. If it’s packed you can ask to be put down on the waiting list and they’ll give you an estimate. Or, you can ask to have a pizza to take away and maybe go eat it in Piazza Bra.

  • Pizza al taglio Paolo e Rosetta
    Corso Cavour, 18, 37121 Verona VR, Italy

This is the “newer” (it’s been here for ages) one of the two places they own. Pizza al taglio is something you eat on the go (or you can eat there, but you won’t have the pizzeria experience). It’s basically a thick soft crust with different toppings, prepared in large pans. When you go in you order how many ‘squares’ or ‘rectangles’ of pizza you want, then you pick which flavours you want. A square is about 15x15cm, a rectangle is double that. You can buy it uncooked and stick it in a hot oven for ~15min at home, or get them to cook it there. It’s also good to get a square just as snack.

OSTERIA

  • Trattoria alla Colonna
    Largo Pescheria Vecchia, 4, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
    www.mrcotoletta.it

This place is famous for its huge veal breaded cutlets: the small one takes all of the plate, the medium one takes up a whole (slightly bigger) plate, and the large one comes on a wooden plank it’s so big. You can top them with different ingredients (e.g. cheese and ham or rocket and tomatoes), but I like mine plain. Also, make sure you order their mayo, it’s home made and delicious! I also love their roasted potatoes, more than their chips.

 

Maybe my favourite osteria. Especially for their ‘bigoli col musso’ (thick spaghetti with donkey mince, a speciality from Verona – REALLY good!) and amazing wine. Fun fact, outside the osteria to the left if you face it, you can see a plaque stating that Romeo (from Romeo & Juliet) lived in the house next door.

bigoli with donkey mince sauce

EVENING DRINKS & WINE

  • Osteria la Mandorla
    Via Alberto Mario, 23, 37121 Verona VR, Italy

Very tiny place. Although they call themselves Osteria, they only serve “chicchetti” (small tapas food). But they have a large selection of amazing wine. Locals enjoy standing outside on the street in the summer, with a glass of wine.

  • Scio’ Rum
    Via Sant’Alessio, 46, 37129 Verona VR, Italy
    www.verona.net

Cocktail bar with several rooms, each decorated in a different style. The name is a play on words to sound like “show room”. I like that it’s still in town, but slightly out of reach from the crowded city centre.

 

Food map

Walks map



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